Finally figured out how to install the Blink Outdoor camera on that tricky vinyl siding without making a mess of it. Took me longer than I care to admit.
Honestly, the instructions that came with it? Pretty useless for this specific scenario. I ended up drilling too many holes the first time, creating little swiss cheese patterns on my house. Annoying, expensive, and looked terrible.
So, if you’ve been staring at your siding, wondering how to get that Blink camera up there without resorting to a DIY disaster, you’re in the right spot. This is the dirt no-nonsense guide to how to install Blink outdoor camera on siding.
Mounting Blink Outdoors: The Siding Struggle Is Real
Let’s get straight to it. Mounting anything on vinyl siding is a pain. It’s flexible, it can crack if you breathe on it wrong, and it definitely doesn’t want to hold a screw like solid wood. My first Blink Outdoor install attempt involved just screwing the bracket straight into the siding. Big mistake. Huge. The plastic siding flexed, the screws didn’t grip, and the camera wobbled like a drunk sailor. I ended up pulling it down after about a week, defeated and annoyed.
The official Blink mount uses screws. That’s their default. For wood, sure. For siding? Not so much. You need a different approach. I spent around $75 testing various solutions, including some fancy adhesive mounts that lasted about three days before a stiff breeze sent my camera tumbling. That was a lesson learned the hard way, right after I saw the $200 camera lying in the flowerbed.
You’re probably looking at your siding right now, maybe it’s a light grey, maybe a deep navy, and you’re thinking, ‘This should be easy.’ It’s not. It’s like trying to build a shelf on a trampoline. The key is to create a solid anchor point that doesn’t rely solely on the vinyl itself. This means you’ll need a small piece of something more rigid to act as a go-between.
[IMAGE: Close-up of a piece of composite wood or a sturdy plastic shim, ready to be attached to vinyl siding.]
The ‘shim-It-Up’ Method: My Go-to Solution
This is what finally worked for me, and it’s surprisingly simple. Forget drilling directly into the siding for the main bracket screws. Instead, we’re going to use a spacer. What kind of spacer? A small piece of composite decking scrap, a sturdy plastic shim, or even a small, thick piece of outdoor-rated plywood. Cut it to a size slightly larger than the Blink camera mount base, maybe 4×4 inches. The thicker, the better, as long as it doesn’t make the camera stick out too far.
Now, here’s the critical part: you’re going to drill holes through your siding *and* this spacer simultaneously. Use a drill bit that matches the diameter of your Blink mounting screws. Mark your spot, hold the spacer firmly against the siding, and drill. You want to create a clean hole that goes through both layers. This provides a solid surface for the screw to bite into, bypassing the flimsy vinyl. It feels a bit like performing minor surgery on your house, but trust me, it’s worth it.
Once those pilot holes are drilled, you’ll attach the spacer to the siding using two or three screws. Use screws that are long enough to go through the siding, the spacer, and bite into the sheathing or stud behind it. If you can’t hit a stud, at least make sure they’re long enough to get a good grip on the house’s structure. I used some exterior-grade screws that were about 2 inches long. They bit in nicely. The siding will still flex a bit around the holes, but the spacer takes the direct load from the camera mount, preventing excessive movement. It’s a bit like putting a small, reinforced plate behind a weak point.
[IMAGE: Hand holding a drill with a bit, drilling through a piece of composite wood shim and light-colored vinyl siding simultaneously.]
Securing the Blink Camera Mount
With your spacer securely attached, you can now screw the Blink camera mount to the spacer. This is where the magic happens. The mount is now anchored to something solid, not just wiggling plastic. You might need slightly longer screws here, depending on the thickness of your spacer and the original Blink mount. I found some 1.5-inch wood screws worked perfectly for attaching the mount to the composite shim. The whole setup feels much more stable, like a tiny, reinforced fortress for your camera.
What about those little clips or tabs on the siding? You might need to trim them back slightly with a utility knife to get a flush fit against the spacer. Be careful, though. A jagged cut looks worse than a slightly exposed shim. Take your time with a sharp blade. This is where some sensory detail comes in: you’ll hear the satisfying ‘zip’ of the knife blade slicing cleanly through the plastic, a much better sound than the grating crunch of a misaligned screw.
Alternative: The ‘clip-On’ Conundrum
Everyone and their dog online suggests those plastic under-siding clips. I tried them. Twice. The first set looked okay for about a month, then the sun and heat warped them, and they started to sag, pulling the camera down with them. The second set? Same deal. They just don’t hold up long-term, especially with the weight of the camera and the constant vibration from wind. I’ve seen reports that some newer, more rigid clip designs might work, but honestly, they seem like a gamble. The manufacturer of these clips often claims they require no drilling, which is tempting, but my experience suggests they’re a temporary fix at best. I’d rather have a couple of small, discreet holes and a camera that stays put.
[IMAGE: A close-up of a Blink camera mount attached to a shim, which is then screwed into vinyl siding. The camera is mounted on the bracket.]
Tools and Materials You’ll Actually Need
Let’s cut to the chase. You don’t need a whole workshop. Here’s the bare minimum to get this done without losing your mind:
- Your Blink Outdoor camera and its included mounting kit.
- A small piece of sturdy material for a spacer (composite decking scrap, thick plastic shim, exterior plywood). About 4×4 inches is usually good.
- Exterior-grade screws. You’ll need a couple for attaching the spacer to the house (around 2 inches) and a couple for attaching the mount to the spacer (around 1.5 inches).
- A drill with appropriate drill bits.
- A Phillips head screwdriver (or a drill bit attachment).
- A measuring tape.
- A pencil or marker.
- A utility knife (optional, for trimming siding tabs).
- Safety glasses! Seriously, don’t skip these.
That’s it. No fancy gadgets, no expensive adapters. Just a few common tools and a bit of patience. The whole process, once I stopped trying to reinvent the wheel, took me about 30 minutes from start to finish on my second try.
[IMAGE: A collection of the tools and materials laid out on a piece of plywood: drill, screws, spacer material, tape measure, pencil, utility knife, safety glasses.]
What Happens If You Skip the Spacer?
Bad things. That’s what happens. The siding itself isn’t strong enough to bear the load of the camera and its mount over time. You’ll get sagging, the screws will loosen, and eventually, your camera will be pointing at the ground, or worse, it will fall off. I saw a neighbor’s camera dangling by a single wire after a strong gust of wind because they’d tried to screw it directly into the vinyl. It’s like trying to hang a heavy picture frame on drywall without a proper anchor; it’s just asking for trouble down the road. Plus, the constant movement can degrade the camera’s internal components over time. You’re saving yourself a headache, and potentially the cost of a new camera, by taking this extra step.
The ‘hidden’ Screw Trick for a Cleaner Look
Okay, so you’ve got the spacer on. Now, how to make it look less like a tacked-on afterthought? If you’re using a thicker piece of material for your spacer, like a composite scrap, you can sometimes pre-drill the holes from the *back* of the spacer. This means the screw heads will be hidden behind the spacer, and only the screw tips will poke through to the mount. Then, when you attach the Blink mount, the screws go into the spacer from the front. It’s a subtle detail, but it makes the whole installation look much cleaner and more professional. It’s like the difference between a plain screw head and a flush-mounted bolt on a piece of furniture.
Siding Types and Considerations
This method is primarily for vinyl siding. If you have aluminum siding, the principle is similar, but be extra careful as aluminum can dent and scratch more easily. For fiber cement siding, which is much more rigid, you might be able to get away with directly screwing in the mount, but I’d still recommend pilot holes. Always check the manufacturer’s recommendations for your specific siding type if you’re unsure. The American Siding Manufacturers Association (ASMA) provides general installation guidelines for various siding materials, and while they don’t cover specific camera mounts, their advice on load-bearing and fastener types is generally applicable.
[IMAGE: A side-view diagram illustrating the ‘hidden screw’ method, showing the spacer, siding, and mounting bracket with screws coming from behind the spacer into the mount.]
Testing the Mount Before You Commit
Before you fully tighten everything down and put the camera on, give the mount a good wiggle. Tug on it gently. Does it feel solid? Does it move at all? If it still feels loose, it’s time to re-evaluate your screws or your spacer material. Maybe your screws aren’t long enough to grab the sheathing behind the siding. Or perhaps your spacer material is too thin or too flexible. For my setup, after the first tug, I realized I needed slightly longer screws to get that reassuring ‘locked-in’ feel. A camera needs to be rock-solid. Anything less is just asking for trouble.
Faq: Your Siding Camera Questions Answered
Can I Use Adhesive Mounts on Vinyl Siding?
While some heavy-duty adhesive mounts exist, I generally advise against them for outdoor cameras on vinyl siding. Vinyl can expand and contract significantly with temperature changes, and the adhesive can lose its grip over time. Wind and weather can also compromise the bond. My personal experience saw an adhesive mount fail within weeks during a hot spell, costing me a camera.
Do I Need to Drill Holes in My Siding?
For a secure and long-lasting installation of a Blink Outdoor camera on siding, yes, you will likely need to drill holes. However, the ‘shim-it-up’ method I’ve described minimizes direct reliance on the vinyl siding itself by creating a solid anchor point with a spacer. You’re drilling through the siding, but into something much more robust behind it.
Will Drilling Holes Void My Siding Warranty?
This is a common concern. For most standard vinyl siding, small, strategically placed holes for mounting security cameras are generally considered acceptable and won’t void your warranty. However, it’s always best to consult your siding manufacturer’s warranty documentation or contact them directly to be absolutely sure. The ASMA guidelines, while not warranty-specific, indicate that proper fastening is standard practice.
How Do I Make Sure the Camera Is Level?
Use a small bubble level! Before you permanently tighten the screws attaching the camera mount to the spacer, place a level on the mount itself. Adjust until it’s perfectly horizontal. Once level, then tighten your screws. This ensures your footage isn’t tilted, which can be disorienting when you’re reviewing recordings.
[IMAGE: A person using a small bubble level on a Blink camera mount that is attached to a shim on siding, ensuring it’s perfectly level.]
Is It Okay to Mount the Camera Directly Above a Window or Door?
Mounting directly above a window or door is often ideal for maximizing coverage. However, you need to consider the material above the window or door frame. If it’s brick or solid wood, you’re in good shape. If it’s more vinyl or a softer material, you might encounter the same issues as mounting on a flat siding wall, and the spacer method would still be recommended. Also, ensure you have a clear line of sight and avoid pointing the camera directly at the sun for extended periods, which can degrade the lens over time.
Conclusion
So there you have it. Installing your Blink Outdoor camera on siding doesn’t have to be a nightmare. That little spacer trick is honestly the key. I was so frustrated with my first few attempts, and it cost me time and money. Finally getting it right felt like a small victory.
Remember, patience is your friend here. Don’t rush the process. Measure twice, drill once. And always, always wear those safety glasses. Trust me on that one.
If you’ve been putting off how to install Blink outdoor camera on siding because you’re worried about damaging your house, give this method a shot. It’s not complicated, and it works. Let me know if you try it.
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