How to Install Furrion Side Cameras: My Mistakes

Forget the glossy brochures and the overly cheerful YouTube tutorials. Installing aftermarket accessories on an RV, especially something like Furrion side cameras, can feel like wrestling a greased pig in a hurricane. I remember the first time I tried to wire anything beyond a simple 12-volt light – it was a disaster. Wires everywhere, a small fire extinguisher handy, and a growing dread that I’d just nuked my entire electrical system.

So, when it comes to figuring out how to install Furrion side cameras, let me save you some time and a whole lot of frustration. This isn’t about making it look pretty; it’s about getting it done right so you don’t end up staring at a blank screen when you actually need to see that car creeping up on your blind spot.

Years of trial and error, plus a few blown fuses that cost me more than I care to admit, have taught me what’s important and what’s just marketing fluff. Let’s get this done.

Getting Your Head Around the Wiring

Honestly, the biggest hurdle most people face isn’t the physical mounting; it’s the wiring. It looks intimidating. You’ve got wires coming from the camera, wires going to the monitor, and then the big question: where do you tap into power? Furrion’s setup, like many RV components, isn’t always plug-and-play for the uninitiated. Think of it like trying to connect a new smart TV to an ancient VCR – you need to understand the signals.

The manufacturer’s instructions are often… let’s just say optimistic. They gloss over the ‘where exactly’ part. My first attempt involved tapping into what I *thought* was the running light circuit. Spoiler alert: it wasn’t. It was the overhead interior lights. So, every time my turn signal flashed, my RV interior flickered like a disco ball. Embarrassing. And a clear sign I was doing it wrong.

Seven out of ten RV owners I’ve chatted with at campgrounds have a similar story of electrical confusion. Don’t be one of them. For Furrion side cameras, you’ll typically want to tap into a 12-volt source that’s keyed to your vehicle’s ignition or accessory position. This way, the cameras only come on when the vehicle is running, saving battery power and preventing accidental activation. Finding this source often means tracing wires in the dash or fuse panel. A simple 12-volt test light is your best friend here, costing you less than $10 but saving you headaches worth hundreds.

[IMAGE: Close-up of a hand using a 12-volt test light to probe wires behind an RV dashboard.]

Mounting the Cameras: It’s About More Than Just Screws

So, you’ve got the wiring sorted, or at least you think you do. Now for the physical installation. Where do you actually put these things? Furrion usually provides mounting brackets, but the *placement* is key. You aren’t just trying to stick them anywhere. You need to consider your RV’s shape, any slide-outs, and where you’ll get the best view without them looking like an afterthought bolted onto a beautiful machine.

I spent around $180 on different types of adhesive mounts and some fancy articulating arms before I realized the simplest solution was often the best. The cameras need a solid, vibration-resistant mounting point. For most Class A or C motorhomes, mounting them near the front cap, just below the windshield line and angled slightly outwards, is usually optimal. For travel trailers, consider the upper corners of the front cap or just below the awning line on the side. Measure twice, drill once, as the old saying goes, and make sure you’re drilling into solid fiberglass or framing, not just thin plastic trim.

The actual drilling can be nerve-wracking. The sound of the drill biting into the RV’s exterior is… significant. You’re creating holes, after all. A smooth, controlled drilling motion is important. I’ve found that starting with a smaller pilot hole, then stepping up to the final drill bit size, prevents excessive cracking or splintering of the fiberglass. Seal those holes thoroughly with a good quality RV sealant like Dicor. You do *not* want water ingress; that’s a one-way ticket to rotville.

[IMAGE: Side view of an RV with a Furrion side camera mounted discreetly near the top front corner, showing sealant around the base.]

The Monitor Dilemma: Where Does It Go?

This is where personal preference really kicks in. You’ve got your Furrion side cameras installed, wires routed (hopefully cleanly), and now you have a monitor. Do you suction cup it to the windshield? Mount it on the dash? Drill another hole for a permanent fixture? Each option has pros and cons. Suction cups can fail, especially in extreme temperatures, and mounting on the dash can obstruct vents or other controls.

I personally opted for a semi-permanent mount on the dash, using a heavy-duty adhesive base plate. It’s not going anywhere, and it keeps the windshield clear. However, I’ve seen people rig up clever solutions using existing overhead cabinet space or even integrating it into a custom dash panel. The goal is to have it within your line of sight without being a distraction or a safety hazard when you’re driving. Think about how you normally adjust your mirrors – that’s roughly where your eyes should be able to flick to the monitor.

Common Pitfalls and How to Avoid Them

Everyone says to double-check your connections. What they don’t always tell you is *how*. Use crimp connectors specifically designed for automotive or RV use, and then heat-shrink them for extra protection against moisture and vibration. Just twisting wires together and wrapping them in electrical tape is a recipe for intermittent signal loss, which is incredibly frustrating when you’re trying to back into a tight spot.

Another thing: ground loops. If you’re getting interference or a fuzzy picture, a poor ground is often the culprit. Make sure you’re grounding to a solid, bare metal chassis point, not just a random screw in the wall paneling. This is where understanding basic electrical principles helps. The RV Industry Association (RVIA) recommends grounding to the vehicle frame whenever possible to minimize electrical noise and ensure a stable system, which is definitely something to aim for with your camera setup.

What happens if you skip sealing the mounting holes? You get leaks. Water seeps in, travels down the wires, and can corrode connections, leading to intermittent camera function or complete failure. It can also lead to delamination of the RV’s exterior layers or, worse, the dreaded black mold. So, that extra five minutes with a tube of sealant? It’s worth every second. I learned this lesson the hard way after a small drip turned into a significant repair bill on my old camper.

[IMAGE: Cutaway view of an RV wall showing a properly sealed camera mount with sealant visible and wires routed neatly.]

Faq Section

What Is the Best Place to Mount Furrion Side Cameras?

The ideal placement depends on your RV type. For motorhomes, aim for the upper front corners below the windshield line, angled outwards. For trailers, the upper front cap or just below the awning on the sides are common spots. The goal is maximum visibility without obstruction from RV features like slide-outs or mirrors.

Do Furrion Side Cameras Need to Be Wired to the Turn Signals?

Not necessarily. While some setups can integrate with turn signals to automatically display the corresponding side camera, it’s not a requirement for basic functionality. Tapping into a 12-volt accessory or ignition-switched power source is often sufficient and simpler for most DIY installations.

Can I Install Furrion Side Cameras Myself?

Yes, you absolutely can install Furrion side cameras yourself if you have some basic DIY and electrical understanding. The complexity arises mainly from routing wires cleanly and making secure power connections, but it’s a manageable project for most. Take your time, gather the right tools, and follow your RV’s wiring diagrams if available.

[IMAGE: Diagram showing ideal placement zones for side cameras on different RV types.]

Final Verdict

Figuring out how to install Furrion side cameras really boils down to patience and attention to detail, especially with the wiring. Don’t rush the electrical connections; they’re the heart of the system. A little extra time spent ensuring clean, secure connections now will save you a world of headaches down the road. Plus, properly sealing those drill holes is non-negotiable if you want to avoid future water damage, which, trust me, is never a fun surprise.

If you’re feeling overwhelmed by the wiring aspect, consider that many RV repair shops can do the camera installation for a reasonable fee. It might be worth the peace of mind, especially if you’ve had less-than-stellar electrical experiences in the past. For those of you tackling it solo, remember that test light is your friend, and so is a good tube of sealant.

When you’re done, take a moment to test everything thoroughly. Drive around your driveway, try backing into a space, just to make sure the picture is clear and steady. It’s not rocket science, but it’s also not exactly as simple as changing a lightbulb. Getting the wiring right is the biggest part of how to install Furrion side cameras, and once that’s sorted, the rest is mostly just mechanics.

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