Swapping out your old suspension for a fresh set of coilovers on a ’68 Camaro can feel like Christmas morning for your classic. I remember the first time I even thought about touching the suspension on my old Chevelle – completely clueless, armed with a Haynes manual and a misplaced sense of confidence. It’s a job that’s totally doable, but let me tell you, it’s not always sunshine and rainbows, especially if you’re trying to figure out how to install coilover springs on a ’68 Camaro for the first time.
You can get lost in the sea of jargon and endless product reviews. Some brands promise the moon, and then you’re left with a ride that’s either bone-jarring or so soft it feels like you’re driving a boat. It’s a fine line, and getting it wrong means headaches, wasted cash, and frankly, a car that handles like a shopping cart with a wobbly wheel.
Learning how to install coilover springs on a ’68 camero means a bit of patience and understanding what’s going on under the fenders. It’s about more than just bolting parts on; it’s about making sure your classic pony car handles like it’s supposed to, not like it’s still recovering from the Nixon administration.
Getting Started: The Right Parts and Tools
First off, let’s talk parts. You’re not just grabbing any old coilover kit. For a ’68 Camaro, you want something designed for that chassis. Different kits have different spring rates, damping adjustments, and mounting hardware. My first big mistake? Buying a universal kit that I thought would “fit with a little modification.” Turns out, “a little modification” meant I spent two weekends cutting, grinding, and fabricating, only to end up with something that rode like a buckboard wagon.
You’ll need a solid set of wrenches, a good torque wrench (don’t guess on this, ever), jack stands (never ever work under a car supported only by a jack), a floor jack, some pry bars, and probably a helper. Trust me, wrestling a spring compressor can be a rodeo. Having a second pair of hands makes a world of difference when you’re trying to align the shock and spring assembly.
Don’t skimp on safety gear. Safety glasses are non-negotiable. Seriously, I once had a spring compressor slip just enough to send a coil flying. If I hadn’t been wearing glasses, I’d be writing this from an ophthalmologist’s waiting room. That little scare taught me to respect the stored energy in those springs. It felt like an explosion in miniature, a sharp *TWANG* that echoed in my garage for a good minute.
[IMAGE: A collection of automotive tools laid out on a clean garage floor, including a torque wrench, several socket sizes, pry bars, and safety glasses.]
Removing the Old Suspension
Before you can put the new stuff in, the old has to come out. This usually involves disconnecting the sway bar end links, unbolting the lower control arm, and then supporting the spindle assembly. Once you’ve got that out of the way, the old shock absorber and spring will be accessible. Sometimes they’re a single unit, sometimes they’re separate. On a ’68 Camaro, they’re typically a separate shock and coil spring setup.
Now, here’s where things can get tricky. The spring is under a lot of tension. You can’t just unbolt everything and expect it to fall out. You’ll need a spring compressor tool. These things are designed to safely compress the spring so it’s not trying to launch itself into low Earth orbit when you release its tension. They have little claws that grab the coils and a threaded rod that you turn to compress it. Work slowly and deliberately. Watch how the coils compress; they’ll groan and creak, a sound that makes your teeth ache.
One thing you’ll hear a lot is to just eyeball the alignment after installing coilovers. I disagree, and here is why: suspension geometry is complex. Even with adjustable coilovers, if your initial alignment is wildly off, you’re just chasing your tail. Get an alignment done by a professional shop after you’ve done the initial install and settled the suspension. It’s the only way to dial in the handling properly and prevent uneven tire wear. I learned this the hard way after my tires wore down to the cords in under 5,000 miles on my first attempt. It was a costly lesson, about $400 in tires I didn’t expect to buy.
[IMAGE: A mechanic using a spring compressor tool on the old coil spring assembly of a classic car, with the suspension components visible.]
Installing the New Coilovers
This is the part you’ve been waiting for. You’ll take your new coilover assembly – which is usually the shock absorber and spring already assembled by the manufacturer, or you’ll assemble it using your new springs and shocks – and position it. You’ll typically install the bottom mount into the lower control arm first, then maneuver the top mount into its designated spot. Again, a helper is your best friend here. Getting the bolt holes to line up can be like trying to thread a needle in a hurricane.
Once the main bolts are in and snugged down, but before you fully torque them, you’ll need to connect the sway bar end links. This is crucial for stability. If you skip this, your car will feel like it’s doing the macarena in every corner. The tension from the sway bar helps keep the body roll in check, which is exactly what you want when you’re upgrading to a more performance-oriented suspension system like coilovers.
Now, let’s talk about setting the ride height. Most coilovers have adjustable perches that you thread up or down the shock body. This is where things get fiddly. You don’t want it slammed to the ground initially. Start with a modest drop, maybe an inch or two from stock, and then drive the car for a bit. The springs will settle. You’ll hear them creak and groan, almost like they’re complaining about being new. After a few days, you can re-measure and make further adjustments. I usually aim to get it within half an inch of my target height before taking it for a proper alignment. This whole process can take you through three or four adjustments easily.
Tighten everything up to the manufacturer’s specified torque. This is not the time to guess. Over-tightening can strip threads or crack components. Under-tightening means parts can loosen up, which is a recipe for disaster. I spent around $150 testing different torque wrenches before I found one I trusted completely. Cheap tools can cost you more in the long run.
[IMAGE: A close-up of a new coilover assembly being bolted into the lower control arm of a classic Camaro suspension.]
Adjusting and Fine-Tuning
After the coilovers are installed and everything is torqued down, it’s time for the test drive. Listen for any weird noises – clunks, rattles, squeaks. These are your car’s way of telling you something isn’t quite right. The first drive is usually a bit stiff and might feel a little bouncy as everything settles in. It’s like breaking in a new pair of boots; they’re not comfortable at first.
Now, if your coilovers have adjustable damping (and most decent ones do), this is where the fun, and sometimes frustration, begins. Damping controls how quickly the shock absorber compresses and rebounds. Too stiff, and you’ll feel every single pebble on the road. Too soft, and you’ll be bouncing around like you’re on a trampoline. A common mistake is to crank everything to the stiffest setting thinking it means better performance. That’s like trying to use a sledgehammer to crack a nut; it’s overkill and usually makes things worse. A good starting point is usually in the middle of the adjustment range, and then you experiment from there.
Think of adjusting damping like tuning a musical instrument. You make small adjustments, listen to the feedback (how the car feels), and tweak again. I’ve spent entire Saturdays in my driveway, making tiny turns of the adjustment knob, driving around the block, and then coming back to adjust again. It’s a process that requires patience. The feel of the road shouldn’t be jarring; it should be communicative. You should feel the road beneath you, not like you’re being shaken apart.
Checking your work is important. After a week or so, re-check all your bolts and nuts. Suspension components can settle, and things can loosen up. A quick visual inspection and a quick turn with a wrench can save you a lot of grief down the road. I once found a lower shock bolt that had backed out nearly half an inch after about 200 miles. That was a close call, and it made me realize that vigilance is key. The metal groans and shifts as it settles, and vibrations are a constant enemy of tight fasteners.
[IMAGE: A hand turning an adjustable knob on the top of a coilover shock absorber, with the car’s fender in the background.]
Coilover Spring Installation vs. Stock
The main difference when you’re learning how to install coilover springs on a ’68 camero versus the stock setup is the integrated nature of the coilover. With stock suspension, you often have a separate shock absorber and a coil spring that sits on a perch on the lower control arm. The shock is usually mounted internally or externally to the spring. Coilovers, on the other hand, are a self-contained unit where the spring is mounted directly around the shock absorber body.
| Feature | Stock ’68 Camaro Suspension | Coilover System | My Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|
| Spring & Shock Integration | Separate components, spring sits on control arm | Integrated unit, spring surrounds shock body | Coilovers are cleaner, often more tunable. |
| Ride Height Adjustment | Fixed, requires different springs/shocks for changes | Adjustable perches allow easy height changes | Huge advantage for dialing in stance and corner weighting. |
| Damping Adjustment | Typically non-adjustable or very limited | Usually adjustable for compression/rebound | Coilovers offer far more control over ride quality and handling. |
| Installation Complexity | Can be straightforward, but spring compression still needed | Can be more complex due to multiple mounting points and adjustment nuts | Requires more care and precision, but the payoff is worth it. |
| Cost | Generally less expensive initially | Significantly more expensive upfront | Don’t cheap out on coilovers; quality matters immensely. |
Do Coilovers Really Change How a ’68 Camaro Handles?
Absolutely. Coilovers allow for precise adjustments to ride height and spring rates, which directly impacts cornering ability, body roll, and overall stability. They can transform a classic car that might feel floaty and unpredictable into something much more planted and responsive. It’s like trading in your old flip phone for a smartphone; the capabilities are on a different level.
How Much Lower Can I Safely Lower a ’68 Camaro with Coilovers?
Safely lowering a ’68 Camaro with coilovers involves striking a balance. You can typically drop it 1.5 to 3 inches without major clearance issues, but going much lower can compromise suspension travel and lead to bottoming out, scraping the chassis, and potentially damaging the exhaust or oil pan. Always consider the intended use of the car; a track car will have different needs than a street cruiser. Too low, and your exhaust system will likely scrape on every speed bump.
Can I Install Coilovers on a ’68 Camaro Myself?
Yes, if you have basic mechanical skills, the right tools, and follow instructions carefully, you can install coilovers yourself. It’s a job that requires patience and attention to detail, especially when dealing with spring compressors and torque specifications. Having a friend to help is highly recommended for safety and ease of installation. Remember to always prioritize safety, especially when working under a vehicle.
What Are the Downsides of Coilover Springs?
The primary downsides are cost and ride comfort if not set up correctly. Quality coilovers are expensive. Also, if the spring rates are too aggressive or the damping is set too stiff for daily driving, the ride can become uncomfortably harsh. They require a commitment to tuning to get the best performance and comfort, which isn’t for everyone. The initial setup and ongoing adjustments can be a time sink.
[IMAGE: A split image showing the difference between a stock Camaro suspension (left) and a coilover system installed (right), highlighting the integrated nature of the coilovers.]
Final Thoughts
So, there you have it. Figuring out how to install coilover springs on a ’68 camero is a rewarding project, but it’s not without its pitfalls. You’ve seen that taking your time, getting the right parts, and understanding the safety aspects are paramount. Don’t rush it; that’s how you end up with expensive mistakes and a car that handles like a bad joke.
If you’re looking at your classic and thinking it needs an upgrade that actually makes a difference, a well-chosen and properly installed coilover system is definitely the way to go. It’s a big step up from worn-out stockers, and the feeling of a well-sorted suspension is something you’ll appreciate every time you turn the wheel.
Honestly, the biggest takeaway from all my years of tinkering is that you need to respect the process. Treat each step like it’s the most important one, because in the grand scheme of how your car handles, they all are. Get it done right, and you’ll have a ’68 Camaro that feels and drives worlds better than it did when it rolled off the assembly line.
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