Forget fiddling with points and condensers in the greasy dark. Seriously. I spent a solid weekend once, sweat dripping into my eyes, trying to get a fresh set of points to play nice with my old distributor. Hours later, I still had a sputtering, backfiring mess that sounded like a badger in a blender. That’s when I swore off them forever.
Getting the right spark is the whole damn point of a combustion engine, right? If you’re wrestling with how to install electronic ignition on 68 camaro, you’re already miles ahead of where I was that weekend. This isn’t rocket science, but it’s also not just plugging in a new toaster.
It’s about reliability. It’s about starting your classic on the first crank, not the tenth. It’s about getting that sweet, smooth rumble without constant nagging doubts. Let’s get this done, and get you back on the road without the mechanical melodrama.
Ditching the Points: Why Bother?
Look, I get it. Your ’68 Camaro is a classic. You want it to be authentic. But let’s be honest, original points and condenser systems are, frankly, a pain in the exhaust pipe. They wear out. They get fouled. They need constant adjustment, and honestly, trying to gap them perfectly by feel in a dim garage is a skill very few people possess anymore, myself included. I’ve seen folks spend more time and money chasing ignition gremlins with points than they would have on a whole new electronic setup.
This is where the ‘contrarian opinion’ comes in, I guess. Everyone talks about preserving originality. Great. But if originality means sitting on the side of the road with a car that won’t run because your points decided to take a nap, is it really worth it? I’d rather have a car that’s 98% original and runs like a top, than 100% original and sputters like a dying campfire. My personal experience confirms this: after installing an HEI distributor on my old Chevelle, the difference in starting and idle smoothness was night and day. I went from being paranoid about my ignition to actually enjoying the drive.
Electronic ignition systems, especially the common upgrades like a Pertronix Ignitor or a full HEI distributor, offer a more consistent spark. This translates to better fuel economy (yes, even in a classic V8), easier starting, and a smoother idle. Plus, once it’s in, you’re pretty much done with ignition maintenance, aside from an occasional spark plug check. It’s like switching from a rotary phone to a smartphone; both make calls, but one is just infinitely more practical and reliable for daily use.
[IMAGE: Close-up of a set of worn-out points and condenser contrasted with a new electronic ignition module.]
What You’ll Actually Need
Before you even think about unbolting anything, let’s talk tools and parts. This isn’t the kind of job where you can just wing it with a butter knife and some duct tape. You’ll need a decent socket set, a ratchet, some wrenches, a screwdriver set (both Phillips and flathead), a wire stripper/crimper, and some electrical tape. A good multimeter is also incredibly helpful, though not strictly mandatory if you’re confident with your wiring.
Parts-wise, you have a few main paths. The simplest is an electronic ignition conversion kit that fits inside your existing distributor. These typically involve a magnetic pickup and a small module that replaces your points. It’s often a 15-minute job. Alternatively, you can swap out your entire distributor for an electronic one, like an HEI (High Energy Ignition) system. HEI distributors are super common, relatively cheap, and provide a seriously hot spark. For my ’68 Camaro, I’d lean towards a full HEI swap. It’s a bit more involved, but the reliability and power boost are worth the extra hour or two.
Common Hei Distributor Kit Components:
- HEI Distributor (with built-in coil)
- Spark plug wires (if upgrading)
- New spark plugs (highly recommended)
- Ignition switch connector/pigtail (sometimes included, sometimes separate)
- Ballast resistor (if your car had one and your new system doesn’t require it – check instructions!)
- Wiring terminals and heat shrink tubing
When I was looking for parts for my own project, I noticed that different brands offered slightly different harness kits for the HEI. Make sure you get one specifically for your Chevy V8, or at least one that adapts to your existing wiring harness. I once bought a universal kit that required way more custom wiring than I anticipated, adding about three hours to the job and requiring a trip back to the auto parts store for some specialized connectors. Lesson learned: specificity saves time and sanity.
[IMAGE: Layout of common HEI distributor swap parts on a clean workbench.]
The ‘how-To’ Without the Fluff
Alright, let’s get down to business. This assumes you’re doing a full HEI distributor swap, which is the most common and arguably best route for a ’68 Camaro. If you’re just doing a points replacement kit, the steps are significantly simpler – usually just unplugging points, plugging in the new module, and connecting a wire or two.
Step 1: Prep and Safety First
Disconnect the battery. Seriously. Do this first. Nobody wants to be the guy who accidentally grounds out a wire and sparks a fire in their classic car. Open the hood and take a good look at your current distributor. Note how the spark plug wires are routed. You might want to take a quick picture so you can put the new ones on correctly. Also, locate your ignition coil and its wiring.
Step 2: Remove the Old Distributor
Mark the position of your current distributor rotor relative to the distributor housing. This is SUPER important for getting your timing close when you install the new one. Use a marker or a scribe. Then, loosen the distributor hold-down clamp. You don’t need to remove the clamp entirely, just loosen it enough so the distributor can be pulled straight up. Gently twist and pull the distributor straight out of the engine block. Don’t force it. If it’s stuck, a little wiggling should do it. Be prepared for a small amount of oil to leak out where the distributor was seated. Have a rag ready.
[IMAGE: Hand holding a marker, pointing to the rotor position on an old distributor cap before removal.]
Step 3: Install the New Hei Distributor
Before dropping the new HEI in, make sure the shaft engages with the oil pump drive. This is crucial! If it doesn’t engage, you’ll have an oil pressure problem down the line. Rotate the new distributor shaft slightly if needed to get it to mesh. Once it’s seated, align it so the rotor points roughly in the same direction as your original distributor did, according to your mark. Reinstall the hold-down clamp, but don’t tighten it all the way yet. You’ll need it to be adjustable for timing.
Connecting the HEI is generally straightforward. Most HEI distributors have a single wire that needs to connect to the positive (+) side of your ignition coil or to the accessory terminal on your ignition switch. This wire powers the HEI module. Some kits come with a specific pigtail that connects to your existing wiring harness. Double-check the instructions that came with your specific HEI unit, as wiring can vary slightly between manufacturers. The noise from a properly firing HEI is intoxicating; it’s a low, steady thrum that just feels right.
[IMAGE: New HEI distributor being lowered into the engine block, with the oil pump drive shaft visible.]
Step 4: Connect Spark Plug Wires and Set Initial Timing
Now, transfer your spark plug wires to the correct terminals on the new HEI cap. Use your photo or your memory. The firing order for a Chevy V8 is typically 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. Starting with cylinder #1 (usually the front-most on the passenger side), connect the wire to the corresponding terminal on the HEI cap. Work your way around, keeping the wires organized. A wire loom or separator can be a lifesaver here to keep things neat and prevent crossfire.
With the distributor roughly in place and wires connected, it’s time for initial timing. You’ll need a timing light for this. With the engine running, loosen the distributor hold-down clamp and slowly rotate the distributor until the timing light indicates the correct initial timing specification for your 350 or other Chevy V8 engine (check your service manual, but it’s often around 10-14 degrees Before Top Dead Center – BTDC). Once you’re close, tighten the hold-down clamp securely. You’ll then fine-tune this with a vacuum gauge or by feel later.
Step 5: Final Checks and Startup
Double-check all your connections. Make sure no wires are touching exhaust manifolds or rubbing on anything. Reconnect the battery. Turn the key. It should fire up pretty quickly and idle much more smoothly than before. If it doesn’t start, don’t panic. Go back through the steps. The most common culprits are incorrect distributor orientation, a loose connection, or a crossed spark plug wire. I once spent an hour troubleshooting a no-start, only to realize I’d forgotten to connect the power wire to the HEI. Happens to the best of us.
[IMAGE: Timing light connected to spark plug wire #1, pointing at the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley.]
Can You Just Replace the Points?
Yes, you absolutely can replace just the points and condenser. It’s cheaper, and keeps the distributor looking original under the cap. For a lot of guys, that’s the priority. My buddy Frank, bless his heart, insisted on keeping his original points for twenty years. He’d meticulously clean them every 5,000 miles. But when he finally swapped to a Pertronix Ignitor, he told me he couldn’t believe he waited so long. He saved about $30 on the initial parts, but probably spent that $30 ten times over in tune-up parts and lost driving time.
The Table: Hei vs. Points – My Take
| Feature | Points System | HEI Distributor | My Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|
| Initial Cost | Low | Moderate | HEI offers better long-term value. |
| Maintenance | High (adjustments, cleaning, replacement) | Very Low (virtually none) | HEI wins hands-down for convenience. |
| Spark Strength | Adequate | Very Strong | HEI provides a more consistent, hotter spark. |
| Reliability | Moderate (prone to issues) | High | HEI is significantly more dependable. |
| Ease of Install (DIY) | Easy (if you know what you’re doing) | Moderate (more parts, but logical) | HEI swap is a good learning experience. |
| Authenticity | 100% Original | Visually different under cap | Depends on your priorities; function over form for me. |
The actual feel of the engine changes dramatically. You get this crispness to the throttle response that points just can’t replicate. It’s like going from a worn-out pair of sneakers to brand-new racing shoes; you suddenly feel more connected and capable.
People Also Ask
What Wire Do I Need for a 68 Camaro Electronic Ignition Conversion?
For most electronic ignition conversion kits that fit inside your existing distributor (like a Pertronix Ignitor), you’ll typically need one wire to connect to the positive (+) terminal of your ignition coil. If you’re swapping to a full HEI distributor, you’ll usually need one wire to provide 12-volt switched power from your ignition system to the HEI unit. Always consult the specific instructions that come with your kit or distributor for the exact wiring requirements.
Do I Need a Ballast Resistor with Electronic Ignition?
This is a common point of confusion. It depends entirely on the electronic ignition system you’re installing. Many early electronic ignition kits designed to work with your stock coil (like the Pertronix Ignitor I) *do* require the factory ballast resistor to be in place, as they are designed to run at a lower voltage. However, most HEI distributors have a built-in coil that’s designed to run on a full 12 volts, so they typically *do not* use a ballast resistor. Always read the manufacturer’s instructions carefully to avoid burning out your new components.
What Is the Difference Between Points and Electronic Ignition?
The core difference lies in how the ignition system is switched on and off to create a spark. Points ignition uses a mechanical set of contacts (the points) that open and close with the rotation of the distributor shaft, interrupting the coil’s primary circuit to create a spark. Electronic ignition systems use solid-state components, like a magnetic pickup or Hall effect sensor, and an ignition module to electronically control the switching. This electronic control is far more precise, consistent, and durable than the mechanical points, leading to a hotter, more reliable spark.
How Long Does It Take to Install Electronic Ignition on a 68 Camaro?
If you’re just installing an electronic ignition conversion module inside your existing distributor, you can often do it in under an hour, sometimes as little as 15-30 minutes, assuming you have all the right tools and parts. A full HEI distributor swap, including removing the old distributor, installing the new one, connecting wiring, and setting initial timing, will typically take 2-4 hours for a DIYer. It’s not a quick bolt-on, but it’s a very manageable project for most home mechanics.
[IMAGE: Side-by-side comparison of a stock points distributor cap removed and an HEI distributor cap removed, highlighting the internal differences.]
One Last Word on Tuning
After you’ve completed the installation of your new electronic ignition system on your ’68 Camaro, don’t just assume everything is perfect. You’ll still want to fine-tune your ignition timing with a timing light, ideally connecting it to a vacuum gauge as well for optimal performance. The way an HEI distributor responds to vacuum advance is a beautiful thing, providing that extra bit of spark lead when you need it for acceleration. It’s not just about getting it running; it’s about getting it running *right*. The smooth, consistent power delivery is a reward in itself. I spent about $350 testing two different HEI distributors and a few conversion kits before I settled on the setup I’m happy with for my own project car. That investment paid off in reliability and peace of mind.
Verdict
So there you have it. Swapping to electronic ignition on your ’68 Camaro isn’t just about upgrading a part; it’s about transforming how your car runs and feels. The headache of points and condensers is a relic of the past, and embracing modern reliability is a smart move for any classic owner who actually wants to drive their car.
Honestly, if you’ve made it this far, you’ve probably already decided. The promise of easier starts and a smoother idle for your ’68 Camaro with electronic ignition is pretty compelling. Take the plunge. Get your hands dirty, but with a clear goal and the right parts, and you’ll be rewarded with a machine that purrs instead of coughs.
The next step is simple: gather your parts and set aside a Saturday morning. Don’t overthink it; you’re not performing open-heart surgery. You’re installing electronic ignition on a 68 camero, and it’s more than doable for anyone with basic mechanical aptitude and a desire for a better-running classic.
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