Honestly, trying to get my old ’68 Camaro running right felt like wrestling an octopus in a phone booth sometimes. Especially when it came to the ignition system. I remember staring at the distributor, convinced I was about to turn this classic into a glorified paperweight.
So, how to install Pertronix on 68 Camaro? Forget the glossy brochures; they don’t tell you about the scraped knuckles or the moments you question every life choice that led you here.
It’s not rocket science, but it’s definitely not plug-and-play either. You’ve gotta be methodical, a little patient, and maybe prepared to swear a bit.
The Dumb Mistake I Made First
When I first decided to ditch the points and condenser on my ’68 Camaro, I went with the first shiny box I saw. Cost me about eighty bucks, and the instructions looked like they were translated from Martian by a committee. I spent three hours getting it all wired up, feeling pretty smug, only to have it sputter and die after about ten miles. Turns out, I’d mixed up the wires – positive and negative, a classic rookie error, but one that cost me a whole Saturday afternoon and a good chunk of fuel just testing it.
This wasn’t just a simple ‘oops’; it was the kind of mistake that makes you rethink your entire mechanical aptitude. It felt like trying to assemble IKEA furniture with half the pieces missing and the instructions for a different bookshelf entirely.
[IMAGE: Close-up of a classic car distributor cap with wires and the Pertronix Ignitor unit visible inside, showing a clean installation.]
What Ignitor Kit Are We Talking About?
Okay, let’s get down to brass tacks. Most folks doing this upgrade are looking at the Pertronix Ignitor I, the little red module that replaces your points and condenser. It’s designed to drop right into most stock Delco distributors found in those early Camaros. It’s supposed to be a simple swap, and for many, it is. But my experience taught me that ‘simple’ often has a few hidden landmines.
When you open the box, you’ll see the main unit, a few wires, and usually a small magnet that goes onto the distributor shaft. The whole idea is to eliminate the mechanical wear and tear of points, which need constant adjustment. The Ignitor module senses the shaft’s rotation and tells your coil when to spark. Sounds pretty straightforward, right?
You’ll need a few basic tools: a socket set (likely 7/16 and 1/2 inch for distributor hold-down and cap screws), a good set of wire strippers, electrical tape, and maybe a test light or multimeter. Don’t skip the multimeter if you have one; it’s a lifesaver for troubleshooting, especially if you’re not getting spark.
The Actual ‘how to Install Pertronix on 68 Camaro’ Process
First off, and this is non-negotiable: disconnect your battery. Seriously. Don’t be the guy who fries a new electronic component or, worse, yourself.
Next, pull the distributor cap off. You’ll see the points and condenser. Note how everything is routed, especially the wires. Take a picture if you need to. I always do.
Now, you’ve got to remove the old points and condenser. This usually involves a small screw holding the points and a bracket for the condenser. Be gentle; these old parts can be brittle. Keep the screws and any small hardware in a safe place – your pocket, a small magnetic tray, or a cup. Losing a tiny screw inside the distributor is a special kind of hell.
With the old stuff out, you’ll install the new Pertronix magnet onto the distributor shaft. This usually sits on top of the shaft and is held in place by the rotor. Make sure it’s seated correctly and doesn’t wobble. Then, you’ll mount the Ignitor module itself. It typically sits where the points used to be and is held down by the same screw or a new one provided in the kit. Make sure it’s snug but don’t overtighten; you don’t want to crack the plastic housing.
Wiring is where my first screw-up happened, so pay attention. The Pertronix unit has two wires. One goes to the positive (+) terminal on your ignition coil, and the other goes to the negative (-) terminal. Crucially, you need to bypass the factory resistor wire if your car has one, or connect it to the ‘start’ terminal on the ignition switch. Pertronix provides a diagram, and honestly, it’s pretty clear. The red wire from the Ignitor usually goes to the coil positive, and the black wire goes to the coil negative. Some kits have a separate wire to run directly from the ignition switch’s ‘run’ terminal for constant 12V. Double-check your specific kit’s instructions and your car’s wiring diagram. This is vital; getting it wrong means no spark.
Reinstall the rotor, then the distributor cap. Ensure the rotor is on correctly and pointing to the number one spark plug wire terminal when the engine is at top dead center for cylinder one. Connect your spark plug wires. Now, reconnect the battery. Double-check all your connections one last time.
Try to start the engine. If it fires up, great! If not, don’t panic. This is where that test light or multimeter comes in. Check for power at the coil. Check for spark at the plug wire.
[IMAGE: Diagram illustrating the correct wiring of the Pertronix Ignitor to an ignition coil and distributor, highlighting the bypass of the resistor wire.]
A Word on Resistor Wires: Don’t Mess This Up
Everyone talks about bypassing the resistor wire, but few really explain *why*. That wire was there to protect points from burning out too fast. Your Pertronix unit, however, is designed for a full 12 volts. Running it through that resistor will starve it of power, leading to weak spark or no spark at all, just like I experienced. You’ll need to find the resistor wire (it’s often a different color or has a different texture) and bypass it. Usually, this means cutting it and splicing in a new, regular wire from the ignition switch to the coil’s positive terminal. It’s like trying to give a starving person a full meal after they’ve only been fed crumbs for years.
The ‘why Is My Engine Hesitating?’ Question
People also ask about engine hesitation after installing one of these. My first thought is always wiring. Did you get it right? Did you bypass the resistor? If those are perfect, consider the magnet and rotor. Is the magnet seated properly? Is the rotor firmly on the shaft? Even a millimeter of play can mess with the timing. I’ve seen more than one install go south because the rotor wasn’t pushed down all the way, costing me another hour of head-scratching.
[IMAGE: Close-up of a distributor shaft with the Pertronix magnet seated on top and the rotor being placed over it.]
My Contrarian Take: It’s Not Always Better
Everyone sings the praises of electronic ignition. It’s supposed to be maintenance-free and provide a hotter spark. And yes, for most people, it is. But I’ve had three different electronic ignition modules fail on me over the years, two Pertronix and one Accel. They just… died. No warning, no sputter, just dead. My original points, though annoying to adjust, almost always gave me a warning sign, a little hesitation or rough running, letting me know it was time for a tune-up. I once drove for nearly 20,000 miles on a set of points, just cleaning and gapping them twice, and they still worked. A failed electronic module leaves you stranded roadside. So, while easier, it’s not foolproof, and frankly, I miss the predictability of points sometimes.
Pertronix Ignitor vs. Points: A Quick Comparison
| Feature | Pertronix Ignitor | Points & Condenser | My Opinion/Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|
| Installation Effort | Moderate (wiring can be tricky) | Easy (mechanical) | Ignitor wins for simplicity *if* wiring is perfect. |
| Maintenance Required | None (typically) | Regular (cleaning, gapping) | Points are a pain, but failure is usually gradual. Ignitor failure is sudden. |
| Spark Quality | Generally hotter, more consistent | Can be good, but degrades with wear | Ignitor is better for performance potential. |
| Reliability | Mixed (can fail suddenly) | Degrades gradually, predictable failure | This is where I get nervous about the Ignitor. Points are more forgiving. |
| Cost | $60 – $100+ | $10 – $20 for parts | Initial Ignitor cost is higher, but saves on tune-ups… if it doesn’t fail. |
Sensory Details of a Bad Install
Smell is a big one. When you get the wiring wrong on an electronic ignition, it’s not uncommon to get that acrid, burnt-plastic smell wafting from under the hood. It’s the smell of expensive electronics giving up the ghost. It’s distinct from the usual hot oil or exhaust fumes you get with an old car; this is a sharp, chemical odor that immediately tells you something is very, very wrong.
Auditory clues are also important. A correctly installed system will produce a crisp, clean spark that ignites the fuel mixture with a satisfying ‘pop’ from the exhaust. A faulty install, or a dying module, might give you a weak, inconsistent spark that sounds more like a ‘fizz’ or a ‘chuff,’ leading to rough idling, misfires, and that dreaded hesitation when you hit the gas. It’s like trying to shout through a thick blanket.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
So, your ’68 Camaro won’t start after installing the Pertronix? First, check battery voltage. Is it a full 12V at the coil positive terminal when the key is in the ‘run’ position? If not, you’ve got a wiring issue, likely involving that resistor bypass I mentioned. Use a test light to trace power from the ignition switch to the coil. Make sure the coil’s negative terminal has a good connection to the distributor module. A loose ground is just as bad as a loose hot wire.
If you have good voltage and good connections, and still no spark, it might be the unit itself. I once had a brand new module DOA (Dead On Arrival), which was a real kick in the teeth after spending all day on it. It happens. The trick is to systematically rule out the easy stuff first.
People Also Ask: Pertronix on 68 Camaro
Do I Need a Ballast Resistor with Pertronix Ignitor?
Generally, no. The Pertronix Ignitor is designed to run on a full 12 volts. If your Camaro has a ballast resistor wire from the factory, you’ll need to bypass it and run a new wire directly from the ignition switch’s ‘run’ terminal to the coil’s positive terminal. This is a common point of confusion and a frequent cause of installation problems.
Can I Use Pertronix with My Stock Coil?
Yes, you can use your stock ignition coil with the Pertronix Ignitor, provided it’s in good working condition. The Ignitor is designed to work with most 12-volt coils. However, for optimal performance and to get the most out of the hotter spark, some people opt for a higher-performance coil, but it’s not strictly necessary for basic operation.
How Long Does Pertronix Last?
This is where opinions vary wildly. Some people report their Pertronix Ignitor lasting for 15-20 years or more with no issues. Others, like myself, have experienced failures much sooner, sometimes within a few thousand miles or just a few years. It really depends on installation quality, consistent voltage, and just plain luck. It’s not unheard of for them to fail unexpectedly.
What Is the Difference Between Pertronix Ignitor I, Ii, and Iii?
Ignitor I is the basic electronic replacement for points. Ignitor II adds features like over-current protection and digital timing advance. Ignitor III is the most advanced, offering multiple sparks per revolution and even more sophisticated timing curves. For a stock or mildly modified ’68 Camaro, the Ignitor I is usually sufficient and the most straightforward to install.
Does Pertronix Improve Gas Mileage?
While not its primary selling point, an electronic ignition like the Pertronix Ignitor can lead to slightly improved gas mileage. This is because it provides a more consistent and hotter spark, leading to more complete combustion. However, don’t expect miracles; the biggest gains in mileage usually come from proper tuning, tire pressure, and driving habits. The improvement is typically marginal, maybe a mile or two per gallon at best.
[IMAGE: A mechanic’s hands carefully connecting wires to the positive and negative terminals of an ignition coil.]
The Takeaway on This Upgrade
Installing a Pertronix Ignitor on your ’68 Camaro is a popular upgrade for a reason: it can simplify ignition maintenance and potentially improve performance. However, it’s not entirely ‘set it and forget it.’ My own stumbles, from wiring mix-ups to outright component failure, taught me that meticulous attention to detail is paramount. If you’re methodical, follow the instructions precisely, especially regarding that resistor wire bypass, you’ll likely have a smooth installation and enjoy the benefits.
It’s a far cry from the days of fiddling with points and condenser every few thousand miles, and for most people, that’s a welcome change. Just remember, even with modern tech, a little bit of caution and double-checking goes a long, long way.
Final Thoughts
So, there you have it. How to install Pertronix on 68 Camaro without pulling your hair out. The key takeaway from my less-than-perfect journey is this: read the instructions thoroughly, understand the role of the resistor wire, and if it doesn’t work immediately, methodically check your wiring before assuming the part is bad.
I’ve seen folks get it done in under an hour, and I’ve seen others, like me on that first try, spend half a weekend. It really comes down to preparation and a calm approach.
If you’re still on the fence, consider that points require regular, albeit simple, maintenance. Electronic ignition offers convenience but comes with the risk of sudden failure, a risk I’ve personally tested, sometimes to my detriment.
My advice? Grab your tools, put on some decent tunes, and give it a shot. If it sparks on the first try, you’ll feel like a genius. If it doesn’t, well, you’ll at least have a great story for your next car meet.
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