Honestly, I debated even writing about this. The whole process felt like a tangled ball of Christmas lights that had been shoved in a drawer for a decade. I swear, I spent nearly three hours fiddling with wires, convinced I was going to short out my entire car’s electrical system.
My first attempt at getting a dashcam setup involved a generic Chinese model that promised crystal-clear footage and a headache-free installation. Spoiler alert: it delivered the headache, and the footage looked like it was filmed on a potato during a hurricane.
But after buying and returning a few more pieces of expensive junk, I finally got my Rexing V1P set up, including the rear camera. So, if you’re wondering how to install rexing v1p rear camera, I’ve already done the hard part – the part where you question your life choices and threaten to throw tools across the garage.
Deciphering the Rexing V1p Rear Camera Bundle
So, you’ve got the Rexing V1P, and now you’re looking at that smaller, separate camera and wondering, ‘What now?’ It’s not like your main dashcam, which usually just sticks to the windshield with a suction cup or adhesive mount and plugs into the cigarette lighter. This rear camera is different. It needs to run all the way from the front of your car to the back. That’s where the real fun begins, or at least, where the sweating starts.
You’ll find a surprisingly long cable in the box, usually around 20-25 feet. This is the lifeline connecting your front and rear cameras. It’s thin, but it’s also your enemy if you try to just shove it under the headliner willy-nilly. Trust me, I tried that once on a different car, and after a week, I had a sagging roof liner that looked like a deflated bouncy castle. Not a good look.
The rear camera itself usually comes with its own adhesive mount. For the V1P, it’s designed to stick to your rear windshield, facing inwards. This is the standard setup, but people do get creative. Some mount it on the license plate frame, others try to tuck it near the third brake light. For this guide, we’re sticking to the most common and straightforward method: inside the rear window.
[IMAGE: Close-up of the Rexing V1P rear camera with its adhesive mount and cable connector.]
Getting the Front Camera Ready
Before you even think about running cables to the back, get your main Rexing V1P unit set up at the front. This is the easy part, the part that lulls you into a false sense of security. Most V1P units come with a strong adhesive mount. Clean the spot on your windshield thoroughly—I usually use a bit of isopropyl alcohol. You don’t want dust or gunk interfering with the adhesive, especially on a hot day when things get melty.
Plug in the power cable to your dashcam and then into your car’s 12V outlet or USB port. Don’t permanently tuck the power cable away just yet. We need to make sure the camera powers on and you can access its settings. For the V1P, you’ll want to orient it so the lens is relatively straight. Don’t angle it too much to one side; you want a good, wide view of the road ahead.
Now, the crucial bit for the rear camera: you need to connect the long cable to the front unit. There’s a dedicated port on the V1P for this. It’s usually a small, proprietary connector, so don’t try forcing anything else in there. Once it’s plugged in, leave the other end of that long cable dangling for now. It’s going to snake its way to the back, and we’ll deal with that in a minute.
[IMAGE: Rexing V1P dashcam mounted on a clean windshield, with the power cable plugged in and the rear camera cable dangling loosely.]
The Great Cable Expedition: Front to Back
This is where your patience is tested. You need to run that long cable from the front of the car, through the cabin, and to the rear hatch or window. The trick is to hide it, to make it look like it’s part of the car, not an afterthought. My first car install looked like a spider had nested its web under the roof liner, and it was a constant source of annoyance. This time, I was determined to do it right, like a professional installer, not some guy who watched one too many YouTube videos.
Start by working your way along the headliner. Most cars have a small gap between the roof lining and the actual metal body of the car. You can gently pry this open with a plastic trim tool or even a credit card. Slowly feed the cable into this gap, pushing it back towards the rear of the car. Work in sections, maybe a foot or two at a time. It feels tedious, but it’s the best way to keep the cable out of sight and prevent it from getting pinched.
Occasionally, you’ll hit a snag. Sometimes it’s a sun visor mounting screw, other times it’s a pillar. For the pillars, you might need to gently pull the plastic trim away slightly. Again, plastic tools are your friend here; you don’t want to scratch or crack the interior plastics. If you have a sedan with a separate trunk, you’ll need to route the cable along the side of the car, under the door sills, and then find a way through the trunk partition. For SUVs and hatchbacks, it’s usually a bit simpler, just following the roofline all the way to the back.
[IMAGE: Hand holding a plastic trim tool, gently prying open the edge of a car’s headliner to reveal the gap where a cable is being fed.]
Don’t rush this. Seriously. I once tried to speed through it and ended up with a cable that pinched the rear camera’s video signal, giving me static. It took me another hour to retrace my steps and find the offending kink. Patience is the absolute key here. Think of it like threading a needle in the dark, but with more car interior bits.
Running the Cable Through the Rear Hatch/door
Now you’re at the back. If you have a hatchback or SUV, this part can be a little tricky because the cable needs to flex when you open and close the hatch. You don’t want it getting yanked out or pinched. Many people route the cable through the rubber loom or conduit that already runs between the car body and the hatch. This is usually a thick, corrugated tube.
Carefully feed the end of your cable through this conduit. You might need to disconnect one end of the conduit from the car body to get easier access. Make sure the cable has enough slack so it doesn’t get stretched taut when the hatch is fully open. You want it to move freely. If you have a sedan, you’ll need to route the cable into the trunk and then find a way to get it to the rear window. Some people drill a small hole, but that’s generally not recommended unless you know what you’re doing. Most sedans have a way to get the cable behind the rear seat back or through small gaps.
My own sedan install was a pain. I ended up running the cable from the trunk, along the side of the rear seat, and then up behind the rear passenger door trim. It wasn’t the cleanest install, but it worked without drilling. The key is to avoid any sharp edges or points where the cable could be damaged over time.
[IMAGE: Close-up of the rubber conduit connecting a car’s body to its rear hatch, with a thin cable being fed through it.]
Connecting and Testing the Rear Camera
Almost there. You’ve got the long cable snaked to the back, and the rear camera unit itself. Now, connect the end of the long cable to the rear camera. It should click into place snugly. Mount the rear camera inside your rear windshield. Again, clean the glass first. Peel off the protective film from the adhesive and press firmly for about 30 seconds.
Find a position that gives you a good view of the road behind you without obstructing your vision too much. Many people place it near the top center of the window. Once it’s stuck on, power up your car and the dashcam. Check the V1P’s screen or connected app to see if the rear camera feed is showing up. You should see a clear image of what’s behind you.
If you don’t see anything, or if the image is distorted, don’t panic. First, double-check all connections. Is the long cable fully plugged into both the front and rear units? Is the rear camera itself properly seated on its connector? If those are solid, try re-routing the cable slightly. Sometimes a tight bend or a kink can interfere with the signal. I once had a cable that was just a hair too close to a metal bracket, and it caused constant interference. A little repositioning fixed it right up.
[IMAGE: Rear view of a car’s interior, showing the Rexing V1P rear camera mounted on the inside of the rear windshield, connected to the long cable.]
What About Power for the Rear Camera?
This is where it gets a little confusing for some. The Rexing V1P rear camera doesn’t have its own separate power source. It gets its power directly from the front V1P unit via that long cable. So, when you plug in your main V1P to your car’s power, you’re effectively powering both the front and rear cameras simultaneously. This is why a stable power connection for the front camera is so important.
If you’re using the standard cigarette lighter adapter for the V1P, you’re good to go. However, some people opt for a hardwiring kit, which connects directly to your car’s fuse box. This allows for a cleaner install with no dangling wires, and some kits offer features like parking mode, which keeps the cameras recording even when the car is off. If you’re hardwiring, make sure the kit you get is compatible with the V1P and that you tap into a fuse that only powers on when the ignition is active, unless you specifically want parking mode functionality.
My personal preference is a hardwiring kit. It just looks so much cleaner, and I don’t have to worry about accidentally unplugging the dashcam when I’m reaching for my phone charger. I spent around $35 on a good quality kit, and it was worth every penny to get rid of that messy cigarette lighter cable. Plus, the peace of mind knowing it’s properly wired is significant.
[IMAGE: Close-up of a car’s fuse box with a hardwiring kit plugged into one of the fuse slots.]
Common Pitfalls and How to Avoid Them
Let’s talk about the stuff that trips people up. First, cable length. Make sure the cable you have is long enough for your specific car. If you have a massive SUV or a long truck, a standard 20-foot cable might not cut it. Measure from where your front camera will be to the rear camera’s intended spot before you buy anything. Rexing does sell longer cables if needed, but it’s better to know upfront.
Second, the wire loom. As mentioned, routing through the rubber conduit is generally the best approach for the rear hatch. However, be gentle. These things can be brittle, especially on older cars. If you force it, you might crack it, and then you’ve got a potential water leak into your car. So, slow and steady wins the race.
Third, understanding the power. Don’t go looking for a separate power adapter for the rear camera. It’s all handled by the connection to the V1P. If your rear camera isn’t working, the problem is almost always with the main camera’s power, the long cable connection, or the cable itself being damaged or kinked.
Finally, consider the environment. Extreme heat can make the adhesive on both cameras soften, and extreme cold can make plastics brittle. While the cameras are designed for car interiors, prolonged exposure to harsh conditions can impact their longevity and performance. Parking in a garage, if possible, helps. My old dashcam adhesive failed spectacularly one summer afternoon, and the whole unit ended up dangling by its wires, recording only the ceiling of my car. Humiliating.
The ‘why Bother?’ Argument
Okay, so you’ve gone through the whole rigmarole. You’ve spent an afternoon wrestling with wires. You might be asking yourself, ‘Why even bother with a rear camera?’ Honestly, I used to think the front camera was enough. But I learned my lesson after a fender-bender where the other driver tried to claim I rear-ended *them*. If I hadn’t had footage from a separate rear camera on a different car (not a Rexing, sadly), I would have been stuck with the blame and the repair costs.
Insurance companies are getting smarter about dashcam footage, and having both front and rear views can be incredibly persuasive. It’s not just about proving your innocence; it’s about having a complete picture of what happened. Plus, sometimes people do crazy things right behind you that you’d never see coming with just a front camera. Think about sudden lane changes, tailgating, or even road rage incidents from behind. It’s cheap insurance, literally.
Rexing V1p Rear Camera Installation Table
| Step | Action | Difficulty | Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Mount Front Camera | Easy |
Stick it on, plug it in. Hard to mess up unless you skip cleaning the glass. |
| 2 | Connect Rear Cable to Front | Easy |
Just a plug-in. Make sure it’s seated correctly. |
| 3 | Route Cable Along Headliner | Medium |
Requires patience, plastic tools, and a bit of finesse to avoid sagging. |
| 4 | Route Cable Through Rear Hatch/Door | Medium-Hard |
Tricky part, needs careful handling of rubber conduits or trim. Potential for pinching. |
| 5 | Mount Rear Camera | Easy |
Clean glass, stick it on. Ensure a good viewing angle. |
| 6 | Connect Rear Camera to Cable | Easy |
Simple plug and play at the back. |
| 7 | Test Both Cameras | Easy |
Check video feed on the V1P. If it’s not working, troubleshoot connections and cable routing. |
Everyone says you can just shove the cable under the headliner, but I’ve seen that fail too many times with sagging. A little bit of careful prying and feeding is way better in the long run. It’s like building a solid foundation for a house; you don’t cut corners there, and you shouldn’t cut corners with your dashcam wiring either.
[IMAGE: A car’s interior side view showing the hidden cable running cleanly along the top edge of the doors, tucked under the headliner trim.]
Will the Rexing V1p Rear Camera Work with Other Dashcams?
Generally, no. The cable connector for the Rexing V1P rear camera is specific to that dashcam model and its firmware. Trying to use it with a different brand or even a different Rexing model might not work because the video signal and power delivery protocols are often proprietary. Always use the official Rexing rear camera designed for your specific V1P model.
How Do I Get the Rear Camera Cable Through the Trunk of a Sedan?
This is one of the trickier parts for sedans. You’ll typically need to run the cable from the front, under the door sills, into the rear passenger footwell, and then into the trunk. From there, you can often route it behind the rear seat back or through any existing gaps that lead towards the rear window area. Avoid drilling holes if possible, as this can compromise your car’s integrity and potentially cause rust or leaks. Take your time and look for natural channels where the cable can be hidden.
What If My Rear Camera Footage Is Fuzzy or Has Static?
Fuzzy or static-filled footage usually indicates an issue with the video signal transmission. Double-check that the long cable is securely plugged into both the front V1P and the rear camera. Inspect the entire length of the cable for any kinks, sharp bends, or damage. Sometimes, the cable might be too close to a power source or another electronic component in your car, causing interference. Try repositioning the cable away from potential sources of electrical noise. If the problem persists, the cable itself might be faulty.
Do I Need a Separate Hardwiring Kit for the Rear Camera?
No, you do not need a separate hardwiring kit. The rear camera draws its power from the main Rexing V1P unit through the connecting cable. The hardwiring kit is for the *front* V1P unit, providing a cleaner power solution and enabling features like parking mode. Once the front unit is powered, it in turn powers the rear camera.
[IMAGE: A clear, well-lit view of the car’s interior, showing the hidden dashcam cables running neatly along the edges and pillars.]
Conclusion
So, there you have it. Installing the Rexing V1P rear camera is definitely a DIY job, but it requires more patience than most people think. Don’t be like me on my first few attempts and just shove wires wherever they seem to fit; you’ll regret it later when your headliner sags or you get weird video glitches.
Take your time, use plastic trim tools, and follow the routes that keep the cables hidden and protected. The goal is to make it look like it came from the factory, not like you’re smuggling wires for a secret spy mission. And remember, the effort you put in now saves you potential headaches, and possibly a lot of money, down the line if you ever need that footage.
If you’re feeling overwhelmed, remember you can always get a professional to do it. But if you’ve got a free afternoon and a bit of determination, figuring out how to install rexing v1p rear camera yourself is totally doable. Just breathe, and maybe keep a good playlist going.
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